A guide to budget sim racing

Want to enhance your driving games? Here’s how to find the budget sim racing setup for you, including steering wheels and more.

Most racing games play nice with a controller. In fact, some of the fastest players in the world use one and there are pluses in doing so. Driving realism, however, is not one of them. How could it be? You use a real steering wheel in real life so it makes sense to use the next best thing.

There are other benefits too such as more easily being able to hold a line in a corner, increased surface feedback below your wheels and greater precision.

All that equipment is expensive though, right? Well, a controller is cheaper, yes. You can, however, still enjoy a decent experience for not a lot of cash and you might even see your times improve.

Please not that prices fluctuate and were accurate at the time of making my humble budget sim racing guide.

PC or games console?

Choosing between playing racing games on PC or console is the first major consideration. I would say that, knowing you can use a USB cable or buy an adapter to use controllers on PC, it all comes down to what you already have if you need to keep things cheap.

If all your driving games are on console, there is little point in changing. A PC with a half-decent graphics card can skyrocket costs. Plus, most games look decent on Xbox One or PS4. Even better with the 4K-capable Xbox One X, PS4 Pro or next-generation Xbox Series X, Series S and PS5.

PC racing gaming does have its fair share of pros, though. Games can look their absolute best (hello, RTX 4090) with a higher frame-rate, multi-screen setups become possible, third-party software can be used and the VR catalogue is bigger.

Most older racing games require modest PC specs, so there is a chance you could already play them. If not, consider a graphics card upgrade to something that can manage at least 60 frames-per-second at 1080p (1920×1080-pixel) resolution.

Which steering wheel and pedals?

It is tempting to buy a super cheap steering wheel. However, a mixture of inferior reliability, limited warranty, reduced functionality such as no force feedback and other issues can make this approach a false economy.

Instead, front-up more (if possible) for something from a more established such as Logitech or Thrustmaster. Both have entry-level steering wheels that will enhance the feeling of driving in DiRT Rally 2.0, Forza Horizon 5 and WRC Generations.

A more leftfield option these days are the PXN V10 and newer V99. Both come with a 6+1 stick-shifter, three pedals and comparable force feedback of up to 3.2Nm. Not bad for £210 or thereabouts.

Another great feature of pricier steering wheels is that you can change the wheel itself. If playing a rally game, you can get a Sparco offering. Enjoy Formula One? Various fancy offerings await you.

In the Logitech corner, a safe bet are the Logitech G29 or G920. The G29 is for PS3, PS4 and PC. Xbox 360 and Xbox One users will have to go for the G920, which also works on PC. Or there is the newer G923 with ‘TrueForce’ vibration.

All entry-level wheels are similar in terms of their innards and functionality such as 900 degrees of wheel rotation and torque output. You do, however, get a rev meter and more buttons on the G29/G923 if a PC gamer and unsure which way to go.

Decent force feedback is provided, plus a three-pedal set (that means a clutch) and an overall solid racing game experience. You really can be competitive at this price point, if you have the skills.

More money can be saved with the older G27 or G25. These are still going to make racing games more involving. Ebay is usually littered with second-hand examples at bargain prices. Just be sure to ask questions about useage, age and avoid buying the first one you see.

At the budget end of the Thrustmaster range are the T150, T300RS and TX Racing, which I would say are superior in terms of smoothness and feel but have their faults. For a similar price to the G29, G920 and G923, they are worth considering.

What about direct drive steering wheels?

A steering wheel with direct-drive is by no means an essential purchase for a budget sim racing setup unless money is no object or you want to future-proof. It is, however, going to give you a meatier, more detailed feeling assuming it is attached to something solid (more on that in a second).

The most popular budget direct drive steering wheels are the Fanatec DD Pro and Moza R5 Bundle. Both have their pros and cons such as the Moza not being officially console-friendly. Having used both, I would go for which eco-system you prefer and the lowest price.

For those with deeper pockets, the Logitech G Pro is another option though this is roughly double the price. Less costly is the Thrustmaster T818, which is similarly as powerful.

A leftfield, space-saving option is the Cammus C5. This may not have the pedigree of its rivals, but I have heard good things about its driving feel.

If your budget is endless, I would say that Simucube is generally thought of as the best of the best but new products come and go all the time. Check YouTube, Reddit and gaming forums for general advice as there are many options.

Table, wheelstand or racing rig?

For a while, I had my racing wheel attached to a coffee table. I am now minus a coffee table. The simple fact is that those motors inside provide high levels of torque and so you need something sturdy to hold them down. Or things break.

A sturdy desk can work. Most wheels come with a desk mount mechanism (use some padding to protect the surface). Although that will mean you are sitting very close to your television or monitor. This can be an issue if you have a 60-inch OLED.

A better option is a wheelstand, which cost somewhere between £50 and £200, or a more expensive racing rig. It mainly comes down to your budget, what sort of steering wheel you have and how much space you are willing allowed to use.

Some wheelstands fold up partially. These can be tucked away and are pretty sturdy. You can also use them with any chair, making it is easier to get in and out, and attach various accessories such as a handbrake or gear shifter.

The GT Omega is hardly the prettiest, but it can withstand the torque from my Thrustmaster TS-XW and it can accommodate just about every steering wheel around. Just make sure you buy the right version. Also check there is an option to attach a shifter or handbrake in case you upgrade later.

A proper racing rig, meanwhile, can be bought second-hand if on a budget. Depending, of course, on what your definition of budget is. Bear in mind that a high-end setup can cost thousands overall, is not foldable and is not pretty.

Somewhere between a racing rig and wheelbase is the Playseat Challenge. It is pretty sturdy, can be made sturdier with some DIY effort and can be folded and put away when not in use. As a starting point in sim racing, it is a solid choice.

Another alternative is to build your own wood or metal rig using various tutorials. Finding an old car seat and mounting it to a basic frame is another possibility if you have the tools and knowhow. This could be a fun project and you can really tailor the result to your body and accessories.

What about a shifter or handbrake?

A shifter and handbrake not only improve realism, they can be easier and more intuitive to initiate power slides and other advanced manoeuvres. Logitech’s G29 and G920-compatible Driving Force Shifter is around £33 and does the job if you are not too rough.

Unfortunately, if you want to use the Thrustmaster TH8A shifter equivalent you will have to stump up a lot more dosh. Though it is made from superior materials and is nicer to use.

If you have even more moolah, the Thrustmaster TSS Sparco Mod + can be used as a handbrake or sequential shifter. It is total overkill, but looks great and works well. The later model has Xbox and PlayStation support in addition to PC.

Do you really need a handbrake or shifter? I would say no as mastering a steering wheel can be intense enough and the wheels and pedals are much of the experience. Plus many wheels have paddle shifters. The appeal of initiating a drift (Fast & Furious style) can, however, be hard to ignore.

Any other useful bits and bobs?

For a budget sim racing setup I would usually suggest a USB extension cable as the standard cable on some steering wheels can be restrictive to optimising your room layout.

Television and monitor speakers, meanwhile, are usually rubbish save for high-end stuff – and even then, it is still usually better to go for something separate. HyperX headphones have served me well, but so has SteelSeries and Razer in the past.

A benefit of a headset is not only that you can communicate with others while online, it keeps things quieter for anyone else in the room (although most steering wheels and pedals make a noise) and other audio distractions are reduced for you.

Speakers do not have to be anything fancy if you go this route. The old-school Logitech Z906 is a great surround sound offering, but there are plenty of well-praised desktop speakers at cheaper prices. Or just get some KEF LS50 bookshelf speakers like I have. Because music.

Usually a simple left and right speaker setup is cheapest. 2.1 adds a subwoofer, which will enhance the experience with superior bass (but also upset anyone around you). 5.1 gives you surround sound while 7.1 and beyond exists for even greater realism at a price beyond the scope of this article.

For those who usually listen to music, desktop monitors could prove better. I like the Tascam VL-S3 and VL-S3BT (the Bluetooth-enabled version). You can go cheaper though.

Television or monitor?

This is a budget sim racing guide so I have assumed you will use your own current television or monitor. If not, you can get a decent 1080p television for little money. Even 4K can be wallet-friendly if you are happy going for a slightly older model or can cope without certain features such as HDR. As stated earlier, I would always aim for 60 frames per second as 30 is not so smooth for driving games.

Just bear in mind whether you actually need a 4K resolution display, as 4K gaming on PC means an expensive graphics card or a next-generation console. You could, however, justify the greater expenditure knowing that 4K is also excellent for movies and online video streaming services.

Things to look for in a gaming-friendly television or monitor? A respectable brand with a warranty (Benq, Samsung, B&O, HP etc), HDMI connectivity, a display size of at least 24 inches, at least full HD resolution and as low input lag as possible (many screens have a ‘game’ mode designed for this purpose).

A headphone socket can also be great because you usually cannot plug headphones into a steering wheel and the alternative is having to plug into a controller and ensure that stays on if it is wireless. A USB charging cable will keep an Xbox wireless controller from going to sleep so you never lose audio mid-race. Or just used a wired controller.

What about virtual reality (VR) headsets?

Those on a quest to have the smallest footprint can go for a virtual reality headset such as the PC VR HP Reverb G2 or get a cheaper Meta Quest variant and buy the right PC cable. There is also the PS VR headset for Sony users.

If you go this route via PC, expect to need a powerful PC. Running games at a consistent frame-rate of at least 60FPS (90 is common) at beyond a 4K resolution is tough, even with lower visual settings.

Headsets are also less comfortable (particularly for glasses wearers) and expect to sweat buckets during the summer months. Unless you have air conditioning or a sizeable fan.

Budget sim racing: Summing up

Hopefully my budget sim racing guide has given you some things to mull over as you get into or upgrade your current driving game setup. There are so many things to consider it can be quite daunting, especially if shopping for someone else.

As with any hobby, you must spend a bit to get the, erm, wheels rolling. Around £250 seems about right. Quite a lot, you might think, and it is. But if you want to feel better, do some research into how much real motorsport costs.