3D printing the Twilight Imperium galaxy frame (and addons)

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Want to 3D print the Twilight Imperium galaxy frame with its raised stand and various addons (or want someone to do it for you?) You are in the right place.

The Twilight Imperium galaxy frame and raised stand is a substantial, table-filling 3D print. Expect it to take days of printing if done properly with dozens of parts to assemble at the end (and de-assemble if someone wants the dining table back).

1. Before You Start

Twilight Imperium galaxy board and all addons in PrusaSlicer
This is not a quick print…

 

Printing this project successfully comes down to three main things. Bed adhesion, consistency, and batching.

Use a 0.4mm nozzle as standard, but you could also go to a 0.6 or 0.8. A 0.2mm layer height is the sweet spot for balancing speed and surface quality, which aligns with typical MakerWorld recommendations.

A brim is strongly recommended for larger parts—especially the long base sections—to prevent warping or edge lift. These pieces are long and relatively thin, making first-layer adhesion critical.

PLA is ideal for most parts, but there is one key exception (covered below). Potentially more if you want further peace of mind when it comes to durability.

2. Core Frame (main stand)

This is the structural heart of the build—the part that actually holds your galaxy together.

Your Print Settings (optimised)

  • Walls: 2

  • Infill: 5% adaptive cubic

  • Layer height: 0.2mm

  • Supports: Off

  • Brim: On (recommended)

Using only 5% infill works well here because the strength comes primarily from the geometry and outer walls rather than solid mass. Adaptive cubic keeps weight and filament use low without compromising rigidity.

Though maybe unnecessary, I added a thin cylinder that sits just under the base arch to keep it from sagging.

What to print?

For the full frame, you will need to print the following (these are the correct STL file names at the time of writing this guide):

  • 6 × Centre

  • 6 × 438mm Base

  • 6 × V3.0+3_Body

  • 6 × V3.0+Straight

  • 1 × V3.0+Centre

These parts form the modular ring system that supports different player counts and layouts. The pieces interlock, so dimensional accuracy matters more than brute strength.

Special Part: Locking Star

  • 1 × V3.0 Locking Star

  • Walls: 3

  • Material: PETG

This is one of the few structural stress points in the system. It handles repeated assembly/disassembly, so PETG is the right call—more flexible and less brittle than PLA.

3. Printing Strategy (critical)

Do not try to print everything at once.

Instead:

  • Print one full ‘set’ at a time (e.g., 1 centre + 1 base + 1 body + 1 straight)

  • Test fit before committing to mass production

This avoids the nightmare scenario of discovering tolerance issues after printing 20+ parts.

From community builds, individual pieces are typically under ~3 hours each, making batching manageable.

4. Fracture add-on

This expansion adds support for the Fracture system tile layout. Due to the horrendously tight fitting and lightweight design, there is no need for double-head ‘Y’ Attachment V3 alternative. Just use the regular attachment.

Parts List

  • 3 × Attachment

  • 2 × Fracture Side

  • 1 × Fracture Centre

Print settings?

Match your main body:

  • 2 walls

  • 5% adaptive cubic infill

  • PLA

These parts are not highly stressed, so lightweight printing is ideal.

Important Note

The original designer noted that some add-ons were not initially supported in early versions of the frame. Make sure you’re using the latest files with attachment compatibility.

5. Wormhole & Token Add-on

This is a smaller but visually impactful upgrade.

Parts list?

  • 2 × Attachment (consider printing one without “A” if variants exist)

  • 2 × Wormhole

These parts are mostly cosmetic but still benefit from clean print quality.

Print settings?

  • 2 walls

  • 5–10% infill (you can increase slightly for weight if desired)

Because these are visible pieces, you may want to:

  • Slow outer wall speed slightly

  • Use a finer top layer finish

6. Thunder’s Edge add-on

Parts list?

  • 1 × Thunder’s Edge

  • 1 x Attachment

This is a single-piece add-on, straightforward to print.

Settings?

Same as main body:

  • 2 walls

  • 5% infill

If you want a premium look, consider:

  • Increasing top layers for a smoother finish

  • Optional colour swap for contrast

7. Assembly & Fitment

Once printed, assembly is entirely modular. The Twilight Imperium galaxy frame and raised stand:

  • Locks together via tabs

  • Supports multiple configurations

  • Can be used flat or raised

The raised version lifts the map roughly 100mm off the table, improving ergonomics and saving space.

Fitment tips?

  • Pieces will feel tight so sand connection points and/or use a dry lube

  • Keep tolerances consistent across batches (same printer, same profile)

8. Common Mistakes to Avoid

Warping Long Parts

Use:

  • Brim

  • Clean bed

  • Stable room temperature

  • Enclosure if printing in ASA or polycarbonate

Overbuilding

Avoid high infill as it wastes filament and time with no real benefit here. 5-15% is sufficient with three walls/perimeters.

9. Time & Filament Expectations

This is not a quick project.

  • Expect more than 40 hours print time for the full setup and addons

  • Filament usage is moderate thanks to low infill and mostly two walls (2.5kg roughly)

  • Most parts are efficient but numerous and large

10. Final Thoughts

This is one of those projects where the payoff is substantial. Players consistently say it:

  • Improves visibility

  • Reduces the table footprint

  • Makes the game feel more premium and immersive

Approach it like a system, not a single print. Take your time and you will end up with a centerpiece worthy of Twilight Imperium.

If you would like the Twilight Imperium Galaxy Frame and addons printed, or any 3D print, you can head to my Fiverr page and request my services.

Twilight Imperium Galaxy Frame & Addons images