Yet another original BMW Z4 buying guide (UK edition)

Last updated:03/02/2026

Z4 Models and Engines

The first-generation Z4 lineup is diverse, but purists would argue the four-pot 2.0 and 2.2-litre are much less fun. Still, running costs are potentially lower including road tax and fuel. If you simply want some performance, pleasing looks and a more agile drive, you will be most pleased.

It is the pre-facelift 2.5i and 3.0- or the post-facelift 2.5Si and 3.0Si where things get serious, especially for motorway cruising as the biggest M54 and N52 provide six gears. Hence it is possible to get 35MPG+ out of the 3.0-litre model.

That M54 straight-six BMW engine is smooth, strong, makes a nice noise and is still rapid by today’s standards. In part thanks to the lower kerb weight of the earlier Z4 models.

Post-facelift, the Si N52-powered variant are said to be even more bullet-proof (more on that later) but there are M54 proponents who would say the original lump is a safer bet.

Atop the tree is the Z4 M, which gets its own S54 engine. More horsepower, greater performance and bigger thrills are balanced out by larger garage bills, higher running costs, particularly painful road tax bills and the most expensive upfront purchase price.

The 3.0i and 3.0Si six-cylinder engines are, in my opinion, the best combination of price, performance and future prices.

So how much are we talking?

Despite becoming rarer and rarer, a first-generation Z4 is still cheap. Good news for buyers, not so good news for sellers or anyone hoping to see a decent return. For the E85 Roadster, £2,000 to £7,000 is likely.

At the cheapest end, expect more than 100,000 miles. Sometimes considerably more. Fine if a good service history is present, but be weary of rust and ensure the engine has been looked after.

The top-end of pricing will be occupied by low mileage manual gearbox unicorns in a desirable lick of paint that have hopefully been serviced regularly and not just sat around. Fewer miles can, however, mean major known repairs and replacement parts are inevitable.

Ideally, somewhere between 60,000 and 90,000 miles will be best. Consistent proven care and a lack of neglect should prove to be the safest bet. Not the least number of miles.

What about the Z4 Coupe and Z4M?

There can be some overlap between the Roadster and Coupe, but generally that permanent hard-top roof and rarer styling means the mileage will be high. For more reasonable mileage and a good spec (including the 3.0-litre engine), a starting point of £8,000 is not unreasonable. North of £10,000 for well-sorted examples.

In M land, you are looking at £14,000 to £22,000, depending on age, spec, mileage, level of care and location. This model is much more highly strung so expect to pay more examples where costly major mechanical effort has been made.

Is there such a thing as too cheap? For the Z4, absolutely. While these are mostly forgiving to work on, 20-plus years of life will mean rust is becoming a bigger and bigger problem. Major engine issues are also likely, meaning a not-so-cheap or easy engine swap down the line.

Manual vs Auto: Which is better?

From a personal driving perspective, manually slotting the manual down a gear to get as much mid-range punch as possible and that glorious straight-six soundtrack is always pleasing. For general driving, I prefer the greater control of a manual.

In a car as hard-riding and punchy as the first-generation Z4, a manual is the best pairing. But those who want or need to be hands-off will still find joy to be had. You are likely to save some money upfront if you can forgo some character and control.

Roadster vs Coupe: Which is better?

Way back when I wanted a sports car, I was hoping for a Z3 M Coupe or Z4 Coupe. Neither was in my budget so I went for the Roadster and have no regrets. Though I find open-top motoring posey, it does emphasise the sportiness. Particularly the engine noise, feeling of speed and raw driving experience.

Downsides include drowned roof motors, which can stop the roof moving altogether (hence why those who park outside clear the roof drains or move the motor to the boot), and a noisier ride.

The Coupe is rarer, looks nicer and will be generally quieter. Not to mention no roof mechanical issues to worry about. But even less of the car is replaceable if rusty or damaged.

What to Inspect

If treated well, the first-generation Z4 is a hardy steed capable of many miles or kilometres. But at potentially more than 20 years old, greater purchasing care is required. Key points to check include:

Engine & Drivetrain

Check for oil leaks (valve cover gaskets and oil filter housing particularly)
Listen for noises – straight-six engines should be smooth
Ask about oil change history as this is key to M54 and N52 survival

Convertible

Soft-top operation – check for slow or failed mechanism
Look for water ingress throughout the cabin and clogged drains

Suspension & Structure

Bushings, shocks, and springs showing age are common wear points (my front springs have snapped twice in 15 years)
Though not particularly suspectible, check for rust on the underside of the car, suspension and wheel arches

Cooling & Ancillaries

Radiator condition (not cracked or leaking)
Wheel bearings and control arms
CCV (crank case valve) condition

Service history is king

A car with well-documented service history often commands a premium – but is likely to save money and misery in the long term.

Consider purchasing a car check to also see if it has ever been crashed, linked to finance, stolen and more. Comb through its MOT history too. Owners with nothing to hide should be happy to answer most questions. Trust your gut.

What about insurance & running costs?

Insurance on a Z4 – especially for younger drivers — can be high. Older cars with classic status and membership of car clubs can sometimes get lower premiums on agreed-value policies though so shop around.

Parts costs vary widely, but OEM parts and quality replacements are still mostly available online at affordable prices. Plenty of donor cars help keep parts prices not too painful though for how long is debateable.

DIY maintenance can be a huge money-saver (spark plug change, for example) and there are many written/video guides online if feeling brave and have the time/tools. Just expect a few stubborn bolts given the age and be safe when jacking the car up.

TL:DR: What makes the E85/E86 special then?

The original BMW Z4 positives are:

Characterful BMW straight-six engines that sound glorious
Weight distribution and handling that never gets boring
Open-top motoring on a straight-shy country B-road
That tactile feel of a manual gearbox
A distinctive design that has aged well
Rarity beginning to take hold
Suitable for taller drivers

Prices have at least remained consistent over the years and many owners today find that the Z4 is transitioning from ‘affordable sportscar’ to ‘collectible classic’. Given the decreasing number of cars still around, time should be on your side.

What about the negatives?